Mason Dixon Longest Day 100K Race Report

Nate Regouski

6/21/2008

 

The Mason Dixon Longest Day event is a spectacular beast of a challenge marked by no outright signs of being “extreme”, but on closer inspection reveals a methodical, deliberate beating that takes its toll on even the most hardy runner.  Whereas more prestigious events may have single climbs of thousands of feet, or cross harsh landscapes in scorching heat or cold, the MDLD event deceives the runner with repeated descents and ascents, trails clogged by stinging nettle, poison ivy, and downed trees, and employs a not-quite-so-scorching heat and high humidity to take its toll.  This is done in the midst of some of the most spectacular terrain of the Susquehanna River Valley, so as to distract the runner from what is being done to their body and mind.

 

This years event was my second try at the MDLD challenge.  The ‘challenge’ is to complete the 100K in the hours between sunrise and sunset on the longest day of the year, just a tad under 15 hours.  I made it 52 miles last year before a sudden onset of IT tendon irritation caused me to scrap the attempt.  I was determined to make adjustments for this years run to prevent the same problem.  Notably, I would not run up even the most moderate hills after 20 miles, and pay special attention to my stride to minimize pounding and strain.

 

Two days prior to the run I deposited 6 drop bags at strategic locations between the organized aid stations.  This worked very well last year, allowing me to complete the first 50 miles carrying minimal supplies.  Also in preparation, I obtained new maps (the dang dog ate last years maps – literally!) and marked aid stations, drop bags, as well as those tricky turns where I spent loads of time and energy off course during last years run.  I reviewed my notes from last year to re-familiarize myself with the more humiliating points.

Waking up before the sun is a peaceful way to start any day.  I gave myself about 10 minutes before I had to be out the door.  A cup of coffee and a few Ho-Ho’s in hand, I was in my jeep chugging down Highway 1, a slight tinge of color already on the horizon.  Motoring down the road, past the rural farms and into the river valley, the surroundings comes into focus as the sun nears it’s breaking point.  With 10 minutes to spare, I pull into Susquehanna State Park to find a small collection of other nuts preparing for a day on the trails.  My running prime is long past, and with this knowledge comfortably at hand, I am not nervous about the run, who else is ‘competing’, or how I will do.  This is a personal journey – more meditation and a time for reflection than a race or challenge.  Of course I want to meet the challenge – or simply to finish – but those are peripheral reasons for why I would get up before the sun and spend an entire day putting one foot in front of the other.

 

At 5:37 Hunt chases us out of the parking lot with a stick.  Were off the road in 100 yards and navigating a creek crossing before tackling the wooded hills of the park in less than optimal sunlight.  The sun may be technically up, but it still has not yet breached the eastern rim of the river valley.  Within a mile I am cranking through the woods alone, and soon traverse the old railroad bridge to get onto the long flat greenway following the Susquehanna riverbanks.  There is a slight mist hovering over the rocks and boulders dotting the surface of the magnificent river, and as I make progress down the trail the sun crests the valley wall to light up the incredible surroundings.  Insects hovering over the water glow in the sunlight, and you can see the occasional ripple of a fish stirring the waters surface in the distance.  I stop and walk a few steps to take it in.  Alas, this is go-time, the chance to eat up distance at a reasonable clip.  I crank out the remainder of the greenway and come to my first drop bag.  With a couple of spectators nearby, I dart off into the tall grass just before the Shure’s Landing parking lot, and fumble around a bit before pulling out my supplies and grabbing some fluids to go.  I walk up Shure’s Landing hill and proceed towards Highway 1 before cutting left off the road near the water tower to follow the trail.  Although I have been on this path before, something beyond reason compels me to try to follow the blue dots to Highway 1, and I proceed to loose the trail.  Refusing to give in to common sense, I make my way down the hill through the woods, coming out on the road 200 yards west of the actual trail.  I make my way up to the parking lot just as Brett Pfleiger and John Sporer are crossing the road.  Having an ample supply of fluids, I bypass the aid station and head into the forest.  I easily navigate the woods and hills of the next section of trail, but again get a little lost making my way to the farmers field before Glen Cover marina.

 

It is still early.  This is the warm-up, these first 15 miles, and I proceed to let my legs carry me on the flats and downhills.  I am not pushing the pace, but I allow my legs to move at their natural tempo, neglecting to inform them of what is yet to come.  Why discourage them after all?  I pass Glen Cove and take a quick look for the water behind the ice machines.  Not finding it, I continue on the path that skirts the pretty little cove busy with a few folks prepare their boats for a day on the water.  Soon I am back on the path, making my way up and down the walls of the valley.  There is a long stretch along a gravel utility road, and on this portion the sun and humidity make their presence known.  It’s not terribly hot yet, but there is a sign of things to come later in the day.  In one of the puddles along this road I scoop up a fist full of mud and apply it liberally to my face and body – my war paint.  After a mile or so the trail re-enters the woods and travels up the hill before beginning the long descent through the rhododendron stands leading to Broad Creek cove, another beautiful river oasis dotted with cottages and boats.

 

I cross the Broad Creek bridge and enter the trail into the woods, past the “Trail Closed – DO NOT ENTER” sign.  The trail soon becomes a moonscape of downed trees and logging equipment.  I think the loggers mistook the blue dots for “CUT THIS TREE” markers, because there is no indication as to which way the MD trail leads.  Following Hunt and Paul’s instructions, I make my way uphill until I can make out a logging road, which I follow to a makeshift parking lot, and eventually find my way to the boy scout camp and along the road to the water stop where Hunt is waiting.  Topping off my fluids, I venture down Flintville road.  At this point the scenery changes – covering county roads - some tar, some gravel - and passing small farm after small farm along the plateau of the river valley.  An old fellow in a beat up pickup stops me to ask for directions to a nearby garage sale.  I must have really looked like I was in-the-know.  Despite the fact that I told him I was not familiar with the area, he stated the address several times thinking it would come to me eventually.  It didn’t, and the guy finally figured out he was wasting his time.  I told him there were a couple guys running behind me, and they for sure knew the address, but that they would probably try denying it and he should really press them until they gave him the information he was seeking.

 

Long comfortable gravel roads eventually give way to the entrance to the Peach Bottom power plant area where - unlike last year - I manage to navigate the area around the power line towers without wandering around for 30 minutes looking for trail markers.  I traverse the restricted area quickly and quietly, ready to evade the security personnel.  I would just rather not have anyone see how bad my license photo is.  Near the power towers I experience some cramping in my thighs.  This is a little concerning because it is early in a very long run.  I cut my pace back a tad and adjusted my stride, making a point to take in as much salt as possible at the next opportunity.  Crossing Atom road and eventually coming out on Lay road, I pick up a granola bar and additional food and liquids.  This is where the run really starts.  It gets interesting and better – if you can believe it.  The trail cuts across the road and heads directly up an unkept section of trail.  After climbing the hill the path begins a long slow descent, most of which is not cleared, so you have to push your way through the brush.  Large wolf spiders seem particularly fond of this section of trail.  You have the choice to try to delicately avoid them, brush them out of the way, or blast through and hope they fall off or are just not too venomous.  Needless to say I could have made a new pair of underwear with the spider silk I picked up along this section.  The trail opens onto a road along the shore of the river, and soon turns back up the hill.  After a long slow climb, I hit Coal Cabin road and make my way down to the kayak outfitters where Hunt is waiting with drop bags.  I am feeling great, but I can also tell it is time to ratchet down my pace and stride to deal with the heat and conserve for the remaining miles.  Continuing down to Coal Cabin Beach, I find a comfortable slower pace along the shore of the river.  It is midmorning and kids are out fishing, parents are mowing their cabin lawns or working in their gardens.  Most everyone stops to look at the dirty, sweaty fool shuffling down their quiet dusty road.

 

At the end of Coal Cabin road the trial makes a beeline up the hill into a stand of beautiful evergreens.  Pine needles cover the path and make for soft, comfortable footing.  Like my previous attempt at the MDLD challenge, this is where I feel a profound sense of peace on the trail.  The combined effect of solitude, the incredible surroundings, and running delirium allow the joy of life to come into focus.  My mind wanders and I think of my incredible wife and children, the wonderful experiences I have been granted, and the promise that the future holds.  This overwhelming sense of peace and happiness lasts almost until the finish (which I will get to later), and it is for this reason this run is so special to me.  No other run  has had quite such an effect.  Perhaps it is simply the distance – this is the first event over 50K that I have attempted.  But I believe it is the surroundings and beauty, the wonderful variety of terrain.  The fact that life IS great, and I  have an incredible family, helps too.

 

Ahem – er – OK, I’ll move on now.

 

The trail along Muddy Run starts by winding through the evergreens high above the creek and slowly descends, crossing several small streams.  I stop at every chance to drench myself in any cold water crossing the trail.  I am not feeing hot at this point, but I know the hills and exposed country roads are coming.  When the path finally descends to the level of Muddy Run, the forest opens to the magnificent slanting rock outcroppings that line the creek.  The water is anything but muddy – crystal clear and inviting.  The occasional kayak or two float by, darting in and out of the turbulent waters along the way.  There are boy scouts hiking, a few people fishing, and a group of teens swimming.  This stretch of creek is a hidden gem.  There is no parking within miles of the trail head, but for anyone who has an opportunity to hike this stretch of the MD trail, it is a must.

 

At the trail exit where the bridge crosses Papermill Road, I retrieve another stashed drop bag and put down a chocolaty Ho-Ho and more food and fluids.  Electrolyte balance and fluid intake are a big part of my strategy, and I am able to eat and drink the entire way.  And a good thing - Papermill road starts by climbing a long steep hill with almost no shade.  The next few miles are largely in the hot sun on country roads.  The sun is now at a high point, beating down to make for sweltering blacktop and gravel.  Soon after, I am again on my way down the slope of the river valley, making my way to the ridiculous rock outcroppings just south of highway 372 and the lock 12 dam.  I remember really struggling over the boulders and rocks last year, but have no such trouble this time around.  My legs are limber - fluid and food intake seems to have resolved the mild cramping I experienced at Peach Bottom.

 

After navigating the rocks south of lock 12, I am soon at the mile 38 aid station.  Things are going very well.  I have a quick chat with the folks there, change my socks, and am soon on my way.  Past lock 12 there is a long stretch along the river on a somewhat flat trail, after which the path turns west, crosses the road, and makes its way up yet another beautiful creek lined with spectacular rock outcroppings.  After following the creek for a short distance, the trail curves uphill and covers another section of evergreen forest along yet another smaller creek.  The trail eventually crosses the creek, where I douse myself again, and begin the long dreaded climb up to El Posey road.  Hunt and Paul noted there was a natural spring surrounded by bamboo along this section of trail, and sure enough – like a desert oasis – there it is!  At the top of the hill I pass the Brett and John fan club/support team, which seems to grow by the hour.  I was anticipating their mascot to show up soon.  What is the Dover XC mascot?  In all seriousness, these guys must be well liked to have so many folks and family carting around the tricky roads and trials of the area, supplied with ice cold water for all who pass.  Thanks a bunch for your generosity and encouragement.

Having crested the hill to El Posey road, it is back to the valley plateau for the last long section of country roads.  Along this section one of the houses has a nasty big dog – very noisy and intimidating.  He bursts out of the gate and comes inches away, barking and showing his teeth the entire time.  The homeowner does not emerge, so I slowly walk down the road, ready to plant my foot into the dogs throat if he jumps.  I am not feeling quite so peaceful at this particular moment, but soon the dog is out of sight and all is well again.  Plodding my way along the dusty gravel, I pass golden wheat fields being harvested by Amish farmers using thrashers pulled by teams of horses, yet another visual testament to the history and culture of this unique region.  The trail again enters the woods, this time a drastically different, drier, stand of oak and elm trees that eventually lead to yet another small creek for another drenching in cold water.  The lower areas are overtaken by more evergreens as I make my way along the creek bed towards Otter Creak campground.  The trail follows a low-maintenance dirt road that parallels highway 425 on the ridge high above, eventually turning to cross a wooden footbridge to the path into the campground.  The last 100 yards into the campground are excruciating, having to push through a large patch of fresh stinging nettle and raspberry thorns.  I think there is no way I am on the trail, but sure enough the blue dots confirm the route.

 

Otter Creak campground is the perfect resting point before venturing out for the last 12 miles.  It is complete with a camp store full of all kinds of goodies, and if you are so inclined there is even a game room.  For me this is a huge benefit, because this is where my family wait for me, and the amenities keep them busy during the potentially long wait for my emergence from the wilderness.  Running is my hobby, and I am thankful my wife and kids make the trek to support me for a few brief glimpses of me in a such a sorry state.  I find them close to the game room where they have set up camp.  They are accompanied by one of the Trail Dawg support crew (sorry I am no good with names), near a table where Amish children are selling moon pies and other homemade baked goods.  This is the 50 mile mark, and here I strap on my water pack, change socks again, and take in yet more food and fluid.  I am fortunate to be able to put down so much without stomach trouble.  After a few pictures and some encouragement from the kids I am back on my feet and heading out of Otter Creek Campground at around 2 pm.  The next 2 miles are where I had gotten seriously lost last year.  I manage to navigate the path off the road and up to the overlook without any trouble this time around.  Suddenly I fell a very cold rush of wetness down the back of my legs.  After a brief moment of confusion I determine my ice-filled water pack has burst.  I call my wife and asked her to meet me with water bottles at the highway 425 crossing where I stopped last year.  As I pass the Christmas tree farm, I reflect on my knee trouble last year, my legs being in great condition now.  I am very cautious to walk every incline and manage my stride to preserve the condition of my trusty legs, which still have not caught on to what the hell I am doing to them.  When I finally cross highway 425, I am relieved to have made it further than my previous try.  I am completely confident that nothing can prevent me from making the finish before sunset.  I have 6 hours left to complete the challenge.  Only 10 miles to go. (Can you sense the ominous foreboding?)

 

I notice Brett and John’s crew are making the trail crossings earlier and more often, indicating the boys from Dover are getting closer.  I mention this to their support crew, and they confirmed the guys are about 15 minutes behind.  On a shorter run this might cause me concern, but today I am at peace, and fell no urgency to try to maintain the lead.  From the start I was fully anticipating that someone would overtake me as I lowered my pace towards the end.  Having never covered this section of trail, I do my best to pay close attention to trail markings.  It’s useless.  After covering perhaps a mile of new trail, the path makes its way downhill before heading up a utility road, and then past a split in the trail.  There are no blue dots in sight to indicate left or right.  I spend 10 minutes going up each path, reviewing my maps, and trying to figure out where I went wrong.  Eventually I just choose a path and make my way to Kline Road, where I notice a blue dot on a utility pole.  I try following this dot, but quickly lose the trail again.  How, I don’t know.  Eventually I follow the edge of a corn field and trek through it to find what road I am at.  I make my way to Shenk’s Ferry road where I met up with Hunt at the mile 54 water stop.  I receive instruction from Hunt to get me back on track, and work my way through a farm field towards the woods.  Looking up the path I can see to the road where spectators are waiting, a bit off the course route, and I yell and wave to let them know they are off the trail.  Soon after this point Hunt, Brett, and John finally pass me.  Brett and John look to be in good shape. 

 

As for me, I am still in great condition, taking care to keep it that way.  Not long after being passed, I AGAIN got lost, following an old overgrown road about 300 yards too far before backtracking and picking up the trail that follows a creek down to Apollo County Park.  It is along this trail that things quickly deteriorate.  Within a very short period of time, I have trouble running the flats and moderate downhills.  I start to notice pressure in my lungs, and despite the vast amounts of water and Gatorade I was taking in, I do not have the urge to pee.  I become dizzy, and even the slightest incline makes my head swim.  Heeding these warning signs, I make sure to douse my head in the creek every few hundred yards in case the heat is the issue.  I am still sweating a healthy amount, so dehydration does not seem to be the problem.

 

I continue to press on, determined to make the last 5 miles.  It’s only 5 miles.  Even if I walk I will at least finish the event, and probably still meet the challenge.  At the end of the downhill along the creek, the trail turns and makes a sharp incline up the valley wall.  After 10 steps up the hill my head is really swimming and I was laboring for air.  I make the hill 3 steps at a time, sitting down to take a break in-between.  It is now that I realize I might not make it.  Something is not right.  Yes this is the longest run I have ever done, but I took great care to play it safe, pay attention to my body, took every precaution.  My legs are still feeling limber.  My energy level is not a concern.  I make it to the top of the hill, and am welcomed by a long, relatively flat straight section of trail.  Even walking this section is an effort.  Pressure continues to build in my lungs.  I keep taking in Gatorade and water.  Again downhill, which is harder now because of the dizziness, and then back up, step by delirious step.  I am very confused about what is happening.  How could I feel so good one moment, and so bad the next?  There has to be a reason, and some way to counteract it.  Another straight section, and then down again, and back up.  I pull out the maps.  It is about 2 miles to the next water stop, where the trail crosses the road.  I can make that!  My water is running low.  Another straight section, and to the left I notice an old dirt road overgrown with tall grass.  Inspecting the maps, I figure this path leads to Kohler road, about a half mile off the trail.  I rest and think.  What is the best decision?  Again I inspected my maps.  2 miles to the last water stop.  ½ mile to the road and not completing the distance for the second time.

 

This is a personal challenge.  I am not in it to inflict great suffering on my body, to win, or to prove anything to anybody, and certainly not to put myself at any risk.  I turn west off the trail and follow the path towards the road.  It is much longer than ½ mile because it does not meet Kohler road directly.  I have a cell signal so I feel safe.  Along the way my wife calls.  I lay down in the grass and tell her where to retrieve my body – er – to meet me at the end of Kohler road.  I get back up and keep walking, making it to Kohler.  I do the zombie shuffle slowly down the pavement towards highway 425.  Vultures start to circle overhead.

 

I make my way to highway 425 and deposit myself at the end of a driveway to a country church.  I receive some very odd stares from locals passing by.  I definitely do not belong.  My wife calls again – she is having trouble finding me.  About 10 minutes later she pulls up and I drag myself into the passenger seat of the van.  When I stopped last year she gave me a little grief for not continuing.  Not so this year.  Everyone is quiet as we head to the finish area to retrieve my drop bags from Hunt’s van.  There we see Paul, for the first time that day.  In a state of delirium I try to describe what happened.  We bade the supporters farewell and begin the journey to retrieve the drop bags I had placed along the course.  As I sit in the passenger seat, I begin to feel worse, and get very hot.  At some point I feel like I am going to be sick and remember asking Stacey to pull over and then everything is black.

 

The next thing I recall is hearing her say my name and something about 911.  As things come into focus I open the door and crawl into the grass in the shade of the car.  I implore Stacey to give me a few moments before taking drastic action, and over the next 10 minutes things become clear again.  I wait a while and then get back in the car and blast the AC on high, and get as much Gatorade down as I can stomach.  We continue down the road and within 30 minutes I am feeling relatively normal again, comfortable enough to continue with the plan to retrieve my drop bags and drive my jeep from the start area back home.  As we drive, Stacey describes what had happened.  I had slumped forward and was breathing rapidly with my eyes wide open, in some kind of seizure.  I assumed I had just passed out, but apparently it was a little more scary than that.  The kids and Stacey were understandably rattled.  By the time we are back at the start I am well past the point of concern.  I still do not feel like I could have trekked the last 4 miles, but I am no longer delirious.  The pressure in my lungs is subsiding.

 

I do not write what happened on the way home to elicit sympathy, or to justify my reason for quitting.  If you read this and get the urge to make sure I am OK, or offer advice, please refrain.  I respect the opinion those more experienced, but I have though about this, spoken to several people, including a doctor who is also a long distance runner, and the problem was either low sodium (a common cause of seizures) or fluid imbalance (too much or too little).  My race report is more for my purposes than for others to read.  If you are such a hardy runner that you actually enjoy reading several pages of one persons description of putting one foot in front of another for hours on end, more power to you, but I seldom get very deep into others race reports – no matter how well written or whimsical – because ultra running us just not that exciting.  If you thought otherwise, sorry to burst your bubble. 

 

Here is what this long distance foolishness it is to me – fulfilling, affirming, a great way to break out of the patterns of everyday life.  It is beautiful and peaceful.  It is meditation and a reminder of how special life is.  It can remind us to take nothing for granted.  It can open your mind and provide a path (or trail if you prefer) to greater understanding and perspective.  It can make you appreciate how special those unique relationships are with your partner, children, and friends.  That is what it is for me to run, and to run the Mason Dixon Longest Day in particular.  If I never finish, I will keep trying, and I have a feeling it will continue to be special year after year.

 

Nate Regouski

July 3, 2008

 

Some photos courtesy of Brett Pfleiger, John Sporer, and their support crew.